Let's try this

For the vang, I'm going to try and avoid a new fitting. This means that I'll use splice trickery to figure something out.

I would encourage everyone to learn how to splice modern 12-strand ropes such as dyneema or vectran. It's easy to do and only requires a needle, thread, and some bendy wire for a fid.

Sites like samsonrope.com have free splicing instructions.

Ok for the vang, without an actual "vang fitting" I had to go back to the mainsheet for a point to secure.



The thing loops through the fitting and around the boom.



Travels down the boom...


Then it loops around the boom again. I had to measure a bit to get the length right, because of the angle caused by the vang itsself.






Then a little Karver block for coolness. Who said old boats can't be hip?






This weekend I paint the boat. I might not be able to resist sanding it ten more times. All that old gel-kote is just weight, plus who doesn't like to get sweaty and covered in dust for a few hours?? Ahhh

Rigger Mortis Part 2

For the halyards I used "Dinghy Control" by Robline. I like that it comes in small diameters and has a bright-colored UV resistant dyneema core.






Main halyard.












It's nice to have a line that I can taper. The covered portion is great for gripping those classic lido mast-base cleats.







...And jib halyard












I made some prototype jib sheets by throwing a dyneema core inside a polyester cover.







I wanted to minimise friction in tacks so I decided a continuous line in front of the mast was the way to go. So I spliced some vectran into a "y" shape, inserted the arms into the main jib sheet, and secured them with a deep bury and some whipping.











For the whisker pole, I added an extra cross-over to the splice and reinforced it with a twine lashing.






Perfect fit!






Secured to sail.






This is a good prototype set, probably good for medium and heavy air. I have some more refinement to do with line types and diameters.

Rigger mortis

Every so often I have to wait for glue to dry, or just want to break the monotony of sanding.

So I indulge in the monotony of rigging. I was fortunate to get a boat with a nice, clean rig.

It needed some modern fittings and new shrouds, also new running rigging. But first...!

Who can name these classic bits in order from top to bottom???




And their replacements...















That's right, no new vang fitting. I have plans.

Statement of Porpoise

At this point in the project, I would like to inform readers about purpose. The project began with an inexpensive used dinghy.

In a joint-owned cooperational team effort between Colin and Lisa, and with additional help from the landed gentry, we intend to refurbish and modify Lido 5029 and, "Get 'er race ready"!

Colin and Lisa plan to race the boat in several regattas culminating in the Lido class nationals for 2010.

The intention is to have everything finished and the boat in the water January 1, 2010 for a frostbite regatta.

This blog can be referenced freely. If anyone has a question or comment, please post a note and I'll be happy to respond. If you'd like to post any pictures or words in a published work, please ask.

We are not trying to make the boat into a great beauty, but where performance, weight, strength, and safety are concerned, the aim is to optimize within the rules.

-Colin

More hull work

Sanded, faired, sanded, faired and sanded again with 120grit. It is prepared to paint.






With a dremmel, then by hand sanding, I removed the lip at the aft end of the centerboard trunk.

Fill all old fitting holes

Repair transom

Wood in the transom was soft due to moisture. We flipped the boat and heated it for several days to make sure it was dry. Then, the technique was to separate the cracks, inject epoxy with slow hardener into every seam, paint the surface, and then clamp.






After it was clamped, I scraped some if the excess and then went over the lot with some thickened epoxy to get the desired level of build.

Hull repair

In Several places, the gel-kote had cracked and needed repair.
Materials used:
Pro-set epoxy
Colloidal silica
Fairing thickener































Sanding...